Poland: September 4.

We left Wroclaw this morning and drove to Czestochowa to explore the Jasna Gora Monastery and see the famous Black Madonna. She was painted in Byzantia and made her way to Poland in the 16th century. Her unusual coloring is the result of a poorly conceived plan to use varnish to protect the paint. There were nuns, monks and tourists everywhere. Fortunately we had a guided tour.

We entered the chapel quietly, as there was a Mass being held. Mass is held every hour of every day here. There were people walking up the aisle on their knees, but we stayed upright as we walked up the aisle, behind the altar and back. It was incredible seeing this ancient world famous icon. 

After leaving the monastery we had a box lunch in the van and went to a Christmas tree ornament factory. Here the glass is hand blown and the ornaments are hand painted and decorated. We had a tour and were supposed to paint an ornament but there were 3 of us who could not breathe in that building with no ventilation. (We waited outside but the neighborhood was pretty sketchy).

We arrived back in Warsaw in time for dinner. Tomek (registered genealogist and owner of the tour company) was there and I spoke to him of an elusive ancestor. He poured wine and limoncello shots for us, Aleksandra gave a little speech and we had a lovely traditional Polish dinner. Elaine, Kris and I raised our glasses. Na zdrowie!